After the savage hand the hospitality industry was dealt during Covid, you’d think all the big players would be declaring all bets are off – but no. The best in the game are doubling down, raising the stakes (and steaks) to greater heights.

Melbourne’s Society is a restaurant that has no peer in Australia, in style, in immensity and in vision. And quite amazingly it came to life during Melbourne’s gut wrenching Covid shutdowns. If ever there was a test of iron will, restauranteur and owner Chris Lucas proved to be made of titanium.

Lucas opened Society in March 2021, a little later than planned, but opening – quite wonderfully – none the less. The 1,800sqm at 80 Collins Street in Melbourne is nothing short of jaw dropping having been designed to amaze, enthuse, and enchant lucky diners and drinkers. The design and layout offer different experiences under the one roof.

From the grand dining room to the brasseries, terrace space and the inviting bar area – this is designed to be a changing menu of experiences, where frequent visitors would never become bored.

“I’m focused on experiential restaurants,” says Lucas. “And I think if you look at Society, it’s one of the most sophisticated experiences in Melbourne, in Australia, in the world I’m told, and that was created during a global pandemic.”

The Lucas restaurant empire is immense, and diverse. Currently seating at nine venues, mostly in Melbourne, the common theme is to ‘expect the unexpected’.

“I am a bit of a unique beast in the restaurant world,” adds the beguilingly down to earth owner. “A lot of people stick to one genre. What’s unique about what we do is, there is no cuisine that I’m scared of doing.” The same is clearly expressed in his design choices.

The Lucas team includes a full-time group that works on rolling out new restaurants – though they are not alone, collaborating with top-of-the-line architects and interior designers to breathe life into the concepts.

Russell & George are the names behind many global standouts and also the names behind the stellar Society.

While they recall their immediate reaction to the project as ‘terrifying”, they absolutely understood the gravitas and potential of the Lucas project.

“If you can define a city by the pinnacle of dining, that’s what he wanted this restaurant to be,” says Byron George. No pressure then.

Of the many Russell & George core design ‘must haves’, the three that immediately draw their attention is the kitchen (naturally), the comfort level (including ensuring that the sensuous embrace of the banquettes has the perfect depth – ‘that’s one of our bug bears’) and a perfect acoustic balance (‘If you over engineer the sound, you can kill the room, dead’)

Their concerns about producing this during Covid were minimal; hygiene standards in their venue designs have never deviated below optimal. The only issues they faced were with some suppliers being locked out, and some products unattainable – but that was mostly stock items upon which they do not rely.

“We prefer not to, especially when we are trying to create an experience, we prefer to use something that no one has ever seen before.”

One such element, central to the Society grand dining room are the magnificent, totally bespoke chandeliers. Impossible to source from overseas, the team turned to a local Melbourne glass blower.

Yet just a few steps away from Society is another Lucas/ George & Russell dining experience – the dazzling Yakimono.

A world away from the subdued tones of Society, Yakimono is an in-your-face, Blade Runner-esque experience also by Russell & George. 3M Dichroic film on glass throws ever changing shards of neon inspired light and colour around the space. Contemporary and vibrant the next-door neighbour to Society is a futuristic take on the Japanese grill experience.

A tight three storeys, the energy is high, the surfaces sharp, the lighting exciting and sculptural, even the reflections off the ‘rainy’ effect stainless steel bar ceiling are noteworthy.

As with all the Lucas venues, and wildly obvious here, is the concept that his restaurants are, as he puts it, destinational. Lucas wants his designs to “take you away from the drudgery of life”.

A drudgery intensified by the Covid led, solitary life of working from home, without even a lunchtime reprieve. Many questioned if people (who Lucas fondly describes as social animals) would ever give up their track suits and Uber eats in favour of dressing up and going out. Luckily Lucas’ belief in people has paid off.

“People are now cherishing what they haven’t had for the last two years; catch up with friends and family, have a glass of wine together, take your kids out for dinner,” says Lucas nostalgically. “People are even more determined to really celebrate life. It’s more than the dining experience, it’s a multi-faceted experience.”

He has driven that concept hard, creating and commissioning designs that elevate the dining experience to have a greater impact than simply enjoying the Saltimbocca. And that elevation is heightened by wonderful, no-two-looks-the-same, design.

His recently opened Grill Americano (lucky Melbournites!) created in collaboration with Denton Corker Marshall and Samantha Eades. It is once again a whole new look; from the 20 seat, white marble bar to the sharp white coats and ties of the serving staff. It’s contemporary Italian, it’s reminiscent of old New York, it offers food to die for, new concept cocktails, and punchy royal blue accents that call people to enter, enjoy and spend an awful lot of money.

Lucas is not stopping here, though Lord knows he has enough to occupy and celebrate as it is. He is forging on, creating a legacy for not just diners, but also perhaps for the city itself. His enormous investment in the properties he has opened engendered an optimism in the financial viability of the city – that too often appeared to be a ghost town.

As Russell & George says, “During Covid it was a test of how much everyone believed in this – how much Chris believed in it, and the investment in it. He understands the role restaurants have in creating a legacy, through legacy experiences – experiences that people remember. Covid has just made everyone realise how much we missed it. Celebrating our lives with people, in an environment that makes you feel good.”

The takeaway from this period of living on the edge.

“Be more playful,” say the partners, almost in unison “Be more experimental and work smarter!”

And from the man behind the many bars and tables?

“Life is short, we’ve come to realise that. You’ve got to enjoy every minute you’ve got – and restaurants play a role in that I think.”

A hand well played to be sure.

Prue Miller

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